July 2013
Truk Lagoon was the scene of “Operation Hailstone” (Feb. 17-18, 1944), a devastating aerial bombardment by the US Navy on Japan’s largest Naval strongold in the Pacific. Today it is known as the “world’s greatest wreck dive”, with more than 48 preserved and diveable wrecks all concentrated in one area.
To dive them is to step back in time. You will see live munitions, guns, planes and tanks and personal artifacts from the period, such as china, bottles, books, shoes and even the occasional bone. These wrecks are considered to be war graves. You are allowed to penetrate the wrecks, but strict policies are in place that forbid the removal of anything from them.
Divers come here for the wrecks. But even if you’re not a hard-core wreck diver, you’ll be impressed by the variety of marine-life from tiny shrimp to sharks, and sweeping gardens of beautifully coloured soft corals and sponges.
The best (efficient, and safe) way to see these wrecks is to go with a guide. Its a very unforgettable experience to go deep inside an unfamiliar space, in the pitch black, with nothing but your light to pierce the darkness, hearing just the sound of your own breathing!
It’s difficult to pick a favourite wreck since they each have their own character. Some have more marine-life and corals, others have more historical artifacts. Some have colourful histories while others are more photogenic, both inside and out.
Here are the wrecks we dove, beginning with the shallowest. And they get deeper, and more interesting as the week progresses. Most of the human remains have been removed, and were ceremonially cremated by the Japanese governement decades ago. But you can still find some remains along the way. You will also notice the suffix “Maru” on the names of the ships. This is a Japanese naming convention, and a designation of the merchant marine.
Kiyosumi Maru, Transport Ship (rests on its port side, depth 40′ starboard side, 100′ to bottom). Her most noteworthy mission was as a troop carrier for invasion forces during the Battle of Midway.
Yamagiri Maru, Passenger-Cargo Ship (depth 30-50′ starboard side, to 110′ bottom). Today she is known for the skull wedged in the engine room ceiling. The ship’s engineer was an unfortunate victim of an explosion during the attack. Since the wreck is so shallow, it has abundant marine growth.
Shinkoku Maru, Naval Tanker (depth 40′ superstructure to 120′ bottom). Considered the most popular, and a “must do wreck”. It has beautiful, colorful, hanging coral gardens everywhere with abundant schools of fish. Since there was so much to see, inside and out, we did three dives including a night dive. The wreck really comes “alive” at night, with marine life and awakening corals, making it perhaps the world’s greatest night dive.
Unkai Maru, Cargo ship (depth 80′ superstructure to 130′ bottom). She was almost gutted by fire before sinking. It is badly corroded and collapsing.
Rio de Janiero Maru, Naval transport and also used as a submarine tender (40-80′ port superstructure to 115′ bottom). She was a former passenger-cargo liner before being impressed into service by the Navy.
Sankisan Maru, freighter (depth 50′ to deck, bottom at 90′). Her aft end was obliterated when a bomb struck her ordinance-filled holds.
Hoki Maru, Cargo ship (depth 110′ superstructure, deck at 140′, bottom at 175′). The first thing you notice is that most of the foreship is destroyed and splayed wide open, due to a bomb that was dropped onto a cargo of aviation fuel. She originally belonged to New Zealand but was captured by the Japanese. The crew was inturned to the infamous Ofuna Camp in Tokyo where most died due to deprivation and exhaustion. Hold 5 is full of heavy equipment, such as dump trucks, tractors, bulldozers, and a steamroller used for making roads and runways.
The holds are cramped & tight, so silting is an issue. Even with good finning, as soon your exhaust bubbles hit the ceiling it dislodges particles that get further stirred up by divers.
Fujikawa Maru, Passenger Cargo ship (structure at 30′, deck at 60′, bottom at 110′). This former aircraft-ferry is the “Signature dive” of Truk, and a must-do. It rests upright with her rear mast almost reaching the surface. Sadly, by virtue of being shallow, she is rapidly corroding, and a large part of the bridge (featured in many previous photographs) has collapsed. The famous and photogenic “R2D2” like air compressor is now inaccesible.
Her holds contain shells for the bow gun, ammo, machine guns, aircraft, and aircraft parts. The superstructure displays baths, staterooms, galley and the engine room is accessible. There was easily enough here to see for three dives (and more!).
Nippo Maru, passenger-cargo ship (mast at 70′, deck at 120′, 150′ to bottom). During the war she was used as a munitions and water carrier. This wreck is interesting because it features a light tank, and its bow and bridge are very photogenic. We dove this wreck as an alternative to the “Million Dollar” wreck- the San Francisco Maru- which also has tanks, so that we could get more dives in. The San Francisco Maru is a technical dive that starts at 140′.
Heian Maru, submarine tender and former Luxury Liner-Cargo ship (ship rests on its port side, starboard superstructure at 40′ to 120′ bottom). She carried supplies for subs, such as food and water, crews, spare parts, machine shop and fuel. The ship carries the distinction as the largest wreck at Chuuk, at 510′ (155 m). We only did 2 dives, but there is enough here to see for weeks of diving!
Related Articles:
The Hell Ships of Truk Lagoon.
Diving Truk Lagoon- the last dives, Submarine I-169, Betty Bomber and Kensho Maru.