July 11-13, 2014
Sometimes to get the best diving you have to go further, endure longer flights, and do without the creature comforts that we all take for granted. Fakarava was that kind of trip. I joined a phototour with Scott Geitler’s Bluewater Photo, specifically to photograph schooling Grey Reef sharks (Part 1). It is reputedly one of the best places in the world to see this. And as a bonus, the timing was chosen to coincide with the annual Grouper spawning event (Part 2). On the second part of the trip, we dove four days at Rangiroa.
Fakarava is an atoll island- a worn down volcanic remnant- barely a few meters above sea level. From the air, atolls look like a circular shaped necklace of islands with blue water breaks in between. These blue water breaks are called passes, and its where all the action takes place. Twice a day water rushes through the pass with the tides as water fills and drains from the inner lagoon.
All of that water that funnels through the passes can give some thrilling drift dives. Most of the ecologically important processes (feeding, migration, reproduction…) takes place here in the passes. Its full of life, and forms a unique ecosystem. And it’s the reason you will find the majority of towns also clustered around the passes.
I was surprised to see how developed Fakarava actually was for a remote atoll- at least at the North end where the main town of Rotoava is. There you will find some resorts, dive shops, and small restaurants.
Since there are no roads beyond the main town, we had to take a water taxi to the south end, to the Tetamanu diving center and pension (their word for lodging). The “Tetamanu” Pass is one of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserves. Here at the south end, the pass is not as deep and the current isn’t as strong as it is in the North pass. Upon arrival, Annabelle (the ever gracious hostess & co-owner), gave us a warm welcome in the traditional Polynesian way- a hug and kiss on both cheeks.
One main reason we had come here was to witness the annual Grouper Spawning event (see part II). But another reason was to dive “Shark Wall”, in the South Pass (Tamakohua Pass), about 60-70′ down. A typical dive starts off by being dropped off at the inlet of the pass on an incoming flood, and then let the current carry you down. There you can observe a hundred plus Grey Reef sharks swimming confidently below in the pass. If you get nice and relaxed, and control your breathing, they will slowly come up. And get closer…
and closer…
and closer…
This a dive that you could do over and over again…
My friend and trip participant Manomi put together this striking video of the sharks of South Fakarava. It also provides a sneak preview for the rest of our trip:
As you grudgingly start to use up your bottom time, you can let go off the shelf, and the current will carry you back toward the Dive center. On one dive, I noticed a small cave. Knowing that this is a place that Whitetip Reef sharks like to rest, I had to check it out. And I wasn’t disappointed. Inside were four sharks. I crept inside the mouth slowly, and took a picture. And that’s when the middle shark got impatient with me, stirred, and swam right past me to the open pass.
When you reach the dive shop, its not necessarily the end of your dive-so long as you have air. The house reef is full of coral, colour and life of all variety. This is worth a few dives all on its own (at or near slack tide).
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can do the outgoing drift dive. You’ll feel like superman flying down this pass. This dive is a little more risky since the visibility drops from over 100′ to about 30′, as the Lagoon empties to the ocean. And the danger of separation increases. It can be difficult to grab dead coral to hold onto with the strength of the current. And you have to be wary of some (manageable) up and down drafts as well.
Related Articles:
Grouper Spawning, Fakarava, French Polynesia.
Shark Diving Rangiroa, French Polynesia.
Diving With Great Hammerheads, Bimini, Bahamas.